Solid Linings Part 2

 

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Much has been said about the stiffness of double sides but for me the real benefit is the stability they add while the box is being constructed, as well as the crack resistance they provide. I feel that the solid linings are what adds the real increase in stiffness. Next, a jig used to cut the inserts for the vertical braces. People have made the point that these are not as needed when using double sides as their primary purpose is the prevent side cracks from spreading around the rims. I still like to use them and this system can certainly still be used with a single side. Here is a photo of the lining side and the jig. Before using this jig I make sure my lining side is flush on both sides and square to the edges.

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The vertical braces are also visible. I cut them to 1/8” x ¼” quartered on the ¼” face. The jig has a Bosch colt base mounted underneath and a 1/4" spiral bit mounted to come up 1/8” above the main bar. The two fences ride along the main bar. They are a friction fit and could be improved to a rolling mechanism. To slice the channels the side is clamped between the two fences and passed over the router bit. This photo shows the side clamped in place about to be pushed over the bit. When performing this operation a sacrificial block is used, putting force directly down to keep everything tight as it cuts.

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Once the slots are all cut, the vertical braces are inserted in the slots and the outer square edges are sanded flush to the curve of the side. You have to number the slots and the braces so you will know which goes where later.

 

 

 

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Here is the side with all of the slots cut

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The next step is to slice up the linings into four pieces. This is done on the bandsaw. I generally cut two slices at 5/8-3/4” and then I cut the other piece in half. The linings on the bottom will have to begin wider to accommodate the taper. Here is a photo of the sliced linings. Note that before slicing them, I marked the waist point on the linings and on the inside of the double sides. This will help with fitting them later.

 

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Now we have our four linings cut and we have to fit them into the side. Before I do this, I install the two blocks to the sides and I sand the taper into the rims. I am not using the dishes so this may vary for some of you. The top linings are easy to fit. I set them at the waist lines, mark where they would meet the neck block, and then remove material until it’s snug to the block and tight to the waist line. I undercut the lining at the end block by a bit and shim it after. If it is made tight on both sides, it can be difficult to fit in when gluing. For the bottom linings I do the same procedure and then (remember these linings are about 1 1/4" tall now) I set them in so they are flush with the bottom of the side and I pencil in the taper onto the lining where it falls away.

 

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