Making a Wooden Plane
Making the Pin
You're really most of the way there. Sit down for a minute and take a deep breath. You might be inclined to rush through this next step so that you can get that plane glued together. Don't be in a hurry.
I always find making the pin to be a fun operation. Take your time with it. Find a
nice piece of scrap, and cut a piece about 3" long, and 5/8" in cross section. Half an
inch or 9/16" will also work, but I've standardized on 5/8" because it makes cutting the
tenons easier. Small planes don't need such a thick pin, but it's really not that
thick.
![]() Half finished pin with "safe", and fine "Swiss cut" files |
This is probably self explanatory. The 5/8" blank becomes a "pin" with a 3/8" round tenon on each end. Mark the tenons out with a marking gauge and saw the cheeks and shoulders carefully. Round the tenon and test fit it in a piece of scrap wood w/a 3/8" hole. I find that a "safe" file is invaluable for this operation. A "safe" file is one that has the teeth removed from one edge. They're sold this way, or you can make your own if you have some method to grind them off. It makes the rounding so much easier and accurate, it's really worth tracking one down.
It just dawned on me that lathe owners might be able to turn down the tenons quite easily.
Finish the tenons and round the back. I use a block plane and a file for this. If you're concerned about clearance space around the pin, you can remove more material from this area. I like to use a contrasting wood for the pin, typically walnut or rosewood.
I've experimented with both wooden dowels and brass rod. I prefer the tenoned pin for several reasons. If you use a wooden dowel, you'll need one that's at least 1/2" in diameter, with 5/8" being better. This is to resist deflection by the wedge. You also need to put a flat area on it to contact the wedge.
Brass rod works well enough, but I find that a flat bearing surface on the pin provides better contact with the wedge, and makes the plane easier to adjust. At least a 1/4" rod is needed, because brass is fairly soft and will deflect if it is thinner.
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Steve Spodaryk
Medford, MA
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article
12.10.2008
- Making a Wooden Plane
Introduction
Tools
The Iron
The Chipbreaker
Wood
Marking Out the Blank 1
Marking Out the Blank 2
Forming the Plane Bed
Drilling the Pin Holes
Making the Pin
Test Fit
Glue Up
Post Glue Cleanup
Adjusting the Mouth
Making the Wedge
Test Run
Shaping the Plane Body
Troubleshooting
Advanced Topics
- Making a Wooden Plane

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